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300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, New Yorker, Vision

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Additional Symptoms [Apr. 18th, 2005|04:08 pm]
300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, New Yorker, Vision
moparmaniac101
Sometimes when I start the car, everything on the dash goes on and goes off after a few seconds like it's suppose to, with the exception of the AIRBAG red light, which stays on completely until the next shutdown and restart. The seatbelt red light sometimes stays on, but goes off spontaneously without notice, more spastic than consistent. The speedometer would read up to 38 mph, get stuck and stay there in that notch until the transmission upshifts into OD at 50 mph, then the speedo would literally "jump" to the appropriate 50 mph reading. Everything 50 mph and up displays correctly until all the needles suddenly dip to 0 value reading simulateously, but returns back to normal readings in seconds after they take a "group break." This pattern is repetitive every couple of seconds, occuring whenever it wants to without a fixed time frame count, varying in the physical seconds it takes to "bounce" the needles. So between 39 mph and 49 mph, the speedo is retardo refusing to move until a minimum of 50 mph is achieved. It works fine from 0 mph to 37 mph perfectly fine. Say, I'm going 55 mph and suddenly had to hit the brakes to slow down and stop for a traffic light. The speedo needle would slow itself to the 50 mph notch, get stuck there for a few seconds, and then "jump" towards the bottom from 37 mph and lower in a jerky fashion, smoothing itself out to 0 mph at rest while idling.

No trouble codes are able to be retrieved because when I cycle the key attempting to retrieve them on the ACC position, the MIL flashes off, then on, only ONCE, but stays on the entire time while I'm driving until the next restart. AIRBAG light and seatbelt light hang around litted as well during this startup procedure.

Gearshift indicator does the following with engine on, spontaneously:
1. lights up in all colors through all notch selections
2. turns off completely when the needles suddenly dip to 0 read value
3. stays lighted in Park only no matter what gear I'm in
4. works correctly as litted in proper notch selection
5. not lighted in any notch selections altogether, in other words nothing

On a lighter note for #1 and #3, the illuminated gear notch selection(s) would not go off after the engine has been shut-off and key has been removed from the ignition until after 3 seconds (exact count).
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1/2 Of Electrical Gremlin Still Lives [Apr. 17th, 2005|05:23 pm]
300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, New Yorker, Vision
moparmaniac101
Part of problem solved! It was the ignition switch. I purchased a brand new Mopar from the Chrysler dealer special order and my following came back: a/c, power windows, speed-sensitive steering, turn signals, and wipers. Assholes at Autozone sold me a defective switch and failed to admit it. I should have known since the unit was opened from the plastic bag, more than likely a customer return as-is.

The mexican jumping bean dash gauges still has no cure. All the needles bounce inconsistently in silmultaneous fashion, while the MIL + seatbelt + battery lights in red flash at the same time together. The gearshift indicator plays along and lights up completely in rainbow but flashes off when the needles dip back down to 0 read value. This is irritating as I can't tell how fast I'm going, or what my engine temperature or fuel level is. Thankfully, my overhead console readouts all work, so the DTE and mpg info substitutes. Bad output sensor on the transmission extension housing, possibly?
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Haunted By More Electrical Gremlins [Apr. 8th, 2005|05:35 am]
300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, New Yorker, Vision
moparmaniac101
My car still rough idles a bit at traffic lights. I decided to cycle the key switch to pull some codes after getting a CEL during routine driving, which disappears when I restart the car. I got a 12, 32, and 55. Bad EGR apparently. Twelve is battery disconnect, and fifty-five is end of summary, according to Chiltons. I went to start the car six hours later. Whoa! My gearshift indicator lights stayed completely on after the engine was on and all the residual dash lights remained on along with it. The message center in the middle portion of the dash for the traction control and ABS indicators remain to function correctly. I had to take the car to get the transmission floor shift interlock recall performed anyhow. Dealership insisted I should replace the alternator due to whine and the gremlin lights would go away. I bought a new one and did the job, which certainly made no difference. Turns out the "whine" wasn't a whine afterall, it was the belt's cutout track pattern that made a slight whistle under hard acceleration and erratic idle. The dash have been very inconsistent, ranging from jumping bean speedo, tach, fuel, and temp gauges to airbag and seatbelt red indicators staying on all the time while driving. The seatbelt light doesn't stay on sometimes. The airbag one does. The gearshift indicator now stays stucked in "P" no matter what gear I'm in. However, once in awhile, the gearshift light lodges itself in the "R" slot, or works 100% altogether until I shut off and restart the car. The speedometer refuses to read past the 40 mph mark, keeping itself frozen at 38 mph even when I'm actually going about 50 mph. Sometimes when I hit an expansion joint or pothole, the speedometer would jump to the actual speed I'm going, for example 55 mph, then dip back down to 38 mph whenever it feels like it. The rest of the other needles seem to enjoy dancing with it as if it were the Jackson Five. The keyswitch has very little resistance to start the engine, and requires none at all to barely even touch it to cut it back off. It won't stay on the ACC position unless if I hold it there. I've also notice if I hit a massive pothole, it jiggles the keys sufficiently enough where my engine totally helps itself to shutting off while in gear. This has happen occasionally and starting to get on my nerves. A couple of times, I start the engine and the key springs itself back off shutting the engine down. Aggravation indeed. Granted, the key can't come out unless in "P" or "N" after the factory shift interlock recall was performed. Now, the key switch cycling method to pull trouble codes don't even work. I tried it and the CEL comes on, flashes once, and then stays on, while the seatbelt and airbag lights go off simultaneously. The CEL remains lighted until I restart, returning the gremlins back to usual. I've been driving with this annoying glitch for three weeks now and it certainly makes me a bait for another speeding ticket due to the possessed gauge cluster. Is it time for a new ignition switch and key lock cylinder? Or possibly a more expensive situation, like bad output sensor and BCM?
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Jeepers Leakers [Mar. 20th, 2005|04:41 am]
300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, New Yorker, Vision
moparmaniac101
Transmission and power steering pump are leaking. New filter and gasket installed on 42LE, including another flush with Mopar 7176. No more leaky tranny. Shifts like brand new again. As for the power steering gusher, I'll let it ride out for another week before I will replace it. Too bad it wasn't the cheap hose. What do I expect? It's an 11 year old car. I can't complain as the Intrepid has been very reliable for me as a daily driver. I had a big guy security guard at work help me undo the PCV vacuum hose so I can remove and replace the valve with a brand new one. That bitch ass hose was stuck on there like glue, mostly from the carbon deposits and sludgy varnish. The idle quality is now near perfect. And I bet it can be "truly perfect" instead of just "near" if I can gut out the EGR system. Need new belts for the a/c compressor and serpentine alternator drive. The current ones are starting to show some cracks.
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Honey, I Shrunk My LH! [Mar. 10th, 2005|04:33 am]
300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, New Yorker, Vision
moparmaniac101



Well, not exactly. My "full-size" edition is actually a teal metallic color, while the mini-me iteration is from the blue metallic variety. This is a 1994 Dodge Intrepid ES 1:24 diecast dealer promotional replica manufactured by Brookfield Collectors Guild, whom is no longer in business after the buyout from Action Racing Collectibles (RCCA). The hand-assembled model is very realistic and the resemblence to my life-size automobile is quite remarkable to scale. It features ALL-FOUR opening doors, hood, and trunk details. When you do lift the hood, a miniature 3.5L engine is displayed in nice fashion. Sorry 3.3L folks, I haven't seen the base engine in any of these collectibles. If this is a must have for your hobby collection, I recommend shopping eBay. Keep in mind that they are pretty rare being a discontinued item for many years. But the chances of locating a mint-in-box condition unit is actually not extremely difficult. You just have to keep looking daily. The releases include: 1993 - 1997 Concorde, Intrepid, Vision; 1994 - 1997 LHS; and 1994 - 1995 New Yorker. Of course, many other numerous Mopar passenger vehicles were crafted by Brookfield Collectors Guild, including the JA "Cloud Car" series and numerous configurations of Neon, just to mention a few. Good luck in your search!
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Driveability Improved Another Notch [Feb. 24th, 2005|09:11 am]
300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, New Yorker, Vision
moparmaniac101
Just installed new wires, the Ultra Spark generics from Autozone with lifetime warranty. Six new platinum spark plugs from Robert Bosch. The car no longer stumbles violently sounding like a 2x4 went through my engine being thrown back and forth at 55 mph. It still does feels a little reluctant on initial take off at parking lot speeds and has a noticeable vibration during idling with the a/c on and shudders the driver side door panel when the cycling switch goes. Worn out pullies maybe? Going to try another trick. I'm disconnecting the battery for 24 hours to see what happens once the computer resets itself. If that doesn't work, I'm buying a new ignition coil as that piece has seen better days. The old battery is history, spewing acid everywhere. Dropped in a new Everstart from Wal-Mart with 1 year warranty. No trouble codes were generated, but even still, I'm wondering if the idle air control has anything to do with it. I must have high-centered something very big because my oil pan is dented so badly and that needs to be replaced before I can even change the oil again. Price of admission includes $65 for the pan itself, $45 for the new gasket, and $105 for the labor installation as I do not have patience or time to take apart the numerous assemblies just to get the pan off. The suspension seems to bottom out with a solid and annoying "thump" everytime a wheel drops into a pothole. That calls for four new shock absorbers, as well as two front tires while I'm at it. Transmission fluid flush and filter for $120 also on the agenda requiring ATF 3, no exceptions. Dexron is evil.
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Electrical Gremlins Solved? [Feb. 17th, 2005|04:16 am]
300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, New Yorker, Vision
moparmaniac101
Ever wonder why such little things make your ownership experience nerve racking? Certainly does for me. It's not the alternator. It's not the transaxle. The Intrepid needs some spark plugs, new wires, and a coil pack. It's a shame such minor details can make such a beautiful car on the hate lists of critics such as Consumer Reports. What basically happens tp the 42LE trannies is that they burn and blow up by insufficient signals generated by the engine's throttle position sensors. Since the 42LE is a completely electronically controlled gearbox, it doesn't know when to shift at all. Self destruction is the enemy here. I remembered a woman with a 1996 LHS stated how occasionally at highway speeds, the transmission would buck like a wild bronco hunting back and forth violently, just like how my car was doing the same. She said it felt like someone threw a 2x4 straight into her engine. My car no longer does that because I put some used wires into the cylinders with low compression. I have to wait until pay day to purchase the new goodies, so the ghetto rigged editions will have to do for now. The idling quality has improved, but not perfected. But I'm getting somewhere. Next items to check include the EGR and PCV valves.
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Wasn't The Tranny Afterall [Feb. 10th, 2005|03:28 am]
300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, New Yorker, Vision
moparmaniac101
After driving it more and more, I just found out something. There's nothing wrong with my 42LE gearbox, it might need a fluid flush and filter change. My frickin alternator has gone bad. The first initial clue is that when I started the car while leaving Wal-Mart. It stalled out on me. I turned the key again and it this time I gave her some gas and held it at 2000 rpm. When I turned on the dashboard lights, the engine sounded like it wanted to stall out again. I stabbed the gas once more to keep the engine revving. As soon as I put it into "drive," the dashboard lights dimmed and the engine sounded as if it lost its breath. The transmission made a harsh clunk and then it shifted finally moving the car with a stuttering throttle input note. Basically, with the bad alternator, the car has no sufficient juice to shift the tranny because it is fully-adaptive electronically control, complete with the fishing reel actuation noise like all FWD Mopar cars. There is no lope or miss in the cruising speed process as the 3.5L coasts very smoothly at 55 - 65 mph, which leaves me to believe the spark plugs, wires, and coil pack are probably fine for now. Plus, isn't the Intrepid's dashboard lighting suppose to be ice blue and not a light green? The bad alternator sets off all the bad signals regardless even if there isn't any other problem. Apparently, that sucks, but it does save me some big bucks from doing any major transaxle service.
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First Post [Feb. 9th, 2005|07:50 am]
300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, New Yorker, Vision

sephlier
[mood |sicksick]

My first V6 was a 1994 Dodge Intrepid ES.  The car had 71,000 miles on it and, depsite the problems that I had with it, was probably the most dependable car I ever had.  It did have certain problems but a lot of them came from the people I had work on it (namely dealerships.) 

My IntrepidCollapse )

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First Generation Owner Gripes [Feb. 9th, 2005|12:54 am]
300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, New Yorker, Vision
moparmaniac101
The nuisances are (1) rough idling, and a (2) transmission glitch. Problem number one doesn't appear to be an O2 sensor as the "check engine" light hasn't come on. I'm assuming a possible MAP or MAF sensor, faulty spark plugs, wires, or ignition coil. Not a big deal. Problem number two is what aggravates me. The dipstick is full and I made sure I added enough to level while the car was idling in "park." The dipstick reads "MOPAR TYPE 7176 IDLE IN PARK" unlike most cars that fill in "neutral." Still didn't cure the problem. At around 35-55 mph, the transaxle rocks annoyingly back and forth hunting between gears I'm assuming. It sounds harsh as if something is putting a crude stop into the vehicle's momentum. Yet, when I inspect the dipstick, there are no signs of burns, smells, or imperfections. The fluid is purple as normal. This problem tends to occur more often and violently when the accelerator is pushed slowly apparent at grandpa speeds. Strangely enough though, by shifting the gears manually from "neutral" during take off from a stop bypasses the problem, provided that I keep it in "3" selection above 52 mph or so, then upshifting into "overdrive" afterwards. Also, when I mashed the gas hard, the problem seems to disappear altogether. When I put it into "overdrive" or "reverse" from "park" after I start the car, the engine takes a breath and acts as if it's going to stall out, but doesn't really. I've been told it could be a couple of causes for this annoyance ranging from a need of a transmission fluid flush and filter replacement, torque converter moderator failure, or solenoid block gone bad. The LH sedan's transmission is labeled model number 42LE. What's the difference between the LH 42LE and 41TE in the T-body minivans? I read literature stating that both units are the A-606 electronic Ultradrive in reality. The car has only 96,000 miles on it, so I'm hoping it doesn't need a rebuild or overhaul, as I can't afford that to begin with. Anyhow, oddly enough, as I drive it more, the kinks seem to diminish little by little since I had a ultimately bad battery previously three weeks ago.
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